The route begins in la Sénia and heads towards Mas de Barberans, turning off before reaching the village to enter the wildest part of the Els Ports Natural Park, where stone and forest seem to have reached an agreement to slow the passage of time. The track winds its way through pine forests and forgotten terraces until it reaches the higher ground, where the air turns cooler and the mountain reveals its true character.

At the top, a monumental cave opens to the east, its inner walls glowing with the first light of day.
From there, the path grows steeper: a ravine section forces you to slow down, sometimes even to carry the bike.
It’s a brief effort, yet enough to remind you that in the mountains, nothing is achieved without patience.

The effort is rewarded. On the far side of the mountain pass, the vegetation changes and an unusual beech forest appears, one of the southernmost in Europe. Beneath its shade, the Faig Pare dominates the clearing like a witness to the passing of centuries. Further on, pine trees take over, led by the Pi Gros del Retaule, a monumental tree ¹ which preserves in its bark the memory of the traditional use of these mountains.

From the high ground, the track gradually drops down towards the Ulldecona reservoir. The landscape opens up and the water suddenly appears, still and enclosed between mountains that mirror themselves on its surface, as if time had come to a standstill down there. It’s a descent that invites you to let the bike roll freely… although it’s best not to let your guard down.

Because the calm lasts only so long. After skirting the reservoir, the terrain demands respect once again: it’s time to climb, a steady ascent that puts the rider back in their place. The asphalt helps, yes, but the gradient is a reminder that in the Els Ports Natural Park every gift comes with its price. The climb leads to Fredes and, along the way, almost without looking for it, the Monastery of Santa María de Benifassà appears. Its pale walls rise from the green surroundings, austere and silent, as if the mountain itself had chosen that spot to build a refuge for the spirit.

Beyond Fredes, the pedalling settles at around one thousand metres above sea level. It’s a suspended strip of land, a kind of natural balcony from which the territory can be observed with distance and calm. Before reaching Castell de Cabres, the route turns away and descends towards Vallibona, a white village clinging to the hillside, where narrow streets and whitewashed façades seem designed to protect themselves from the passage of time more than from the weather.

From there, the road towards Rossell traces a playful, ever-changing line. Each bend reveals a different scene: dense forest masses, open clearings, deep ravines cutting through the mountains without warning. It’s a stretch made for letting go, for riding without haste, with your gaze travelling farther than the front wheel, until the road slowly leads us back to La Sénia.

This loop is a complete immersion in the Tinença de Benifassà Natural Park and the Els Ports Natural Park, a harsh and silent territory where villages are few and the sky feels larger. Here, solitude doesn’t weigh you down, it keeps you company.
High along the ridgelines, griffon vultures trace slow circles, watching from above a route best enjoyed when its rhythm is accepted and the pedalling is unhurried.